12 Sep At New York Fashion Week, a Season of Revival
Source Credit: Content and images from Surface Magazine by . Read the original article - https://www.surfacemag.com/articles/new-york-fashion-week-spring-summer-2025/
Since its sputtering pandemic comeback, a certain corner of the industry has been hand-wringing and harrumphing about the pre-blogger Bryant Park “good old days” of New York Fashion Week. Indeed, things have changed. For one, the park opened fashion week not with a runway show but as the final stop on an Anna Wintour–hosted voting march led by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), where the First Lady and a litany of designers who have dressed her made an appearance. Later that night, Willy Chavarria closed the first day of fashion week with América: a 68-look collection of tailoring and sportswear, complete with an Adidas collaboration and an appearance by 27-year-old Olympic gold-winning sprinter Noah Lyles. In about 15 minutes flat, Chavarria single-handedly recast Americana from the realm of polo field prep, making Mexican American culture and its associated political movements, like the United Farm Workers union, his muses.
On the penultimate night of fashion week, Luar’s Raul Lopez, a Dominican New Yorker, plumbed the depths of his own heritage to inform a heavy-hitting collection whose highlights included leather, organza, and satin tailoring, as well as nascent eveningwear, all worn with unfuckwithable aplomb. Elsewhere, Elena Velez brought punk rock appeal to mythic female figureheads who were known for personifying cultures on the cusp of revolution. A memorable, corseted and coiffed Marianne closed the show, but it was the technical adeptness of Velez’s ruched dresses and leather handiwork that linger in our minds.
Finally, a few designers shared how market forces factored into key areas of focus this season. As Caroline Zimbalist explores the intersection of her art, fashion design, and biotextile development in her ready-to-wear, she noted that stockists are particularly taken with her amorphously sculptural jewelry and accessories. Palomo Spain returned with its second see-now-buy-now collaboration with Bimba y Lola, which made a handful of runway pieces available for purchase immediately after the show. These, unfortunately, did not include a show-stealing pair of fuschia bow-front silk organza trousers or any of the ambitiously oversized tailoring that opened the runway, but a very wearable edit of leather separates, faux-fur statement coats, and accessories. And, going back to Willy Chavarria—22 of his 68 looks stemmed from an Adidas collaboration, including the teeny-tiny boxing shorts that Lyles wore to close the runway. On that, we have no notes.
Source Credit: Content and images from Surface Magazine by . Read the original article - https://www.surfacemag.com/articles/new-york-fashion-week-spring-summer-2025/